Steve here, taking over the newsletter for this week.
Workwear has been around the fashion scene for a while now, and I’ve come to love some of the styles. Ever since I got a pair of the Taylor Stitch The Camp Pant I’ve done some digging about what workwear actually is and what qualities make a piece a fashion item vs. utility work item.
What is workwear?
Workwear started out as just that…clothing to wear for work. Denim came on the scene in the mid 1800s with Levi’s. Carhartt was founded in 1889 selling overalls. Dickies was rather late to the scene, also selling overalls in 1922. Both Carhartt and Dickies went onto making uniforms and other clothing for WWII.
Fashion vs. Work
When I got The Camp Pant, they seemed to be quite durable, but with just my everyday wear of them, I could tell they weren’t up to the challenge of really working in my workshop. To date, I’ve just been wearing old jeans, which works pretty well, but they are not cut for work, nor do they always hold up since they were purchased with everyday wear in mind.
A few differences I’ve come to find in good workwear pants, actually meant for work:
Heavy fabric, with little to no stretch often feeling stiffer at first — my experience with old jeans is that the stretch usually is what gives out first when you are squatting, kneeling on the floor, etc.
A looser cut that you probably wouldn’t pick for everyday wear — heavy fabric and a lack of stretch means you need more room to move.
Double knees — knees will often be doubled up or reinforced in some way to give even more protection and abrasion resistance where you usually wear through work pants first, as well as offering protection from your work.
Tried and True Brands
As mentioned in the intro, Carhartt and Dickies are two of the brands you’ll see at any job site or uniform shop. Carhartt has their Duck Double Front Pants (12 oz, 99% cotton, 1% spandex), compared to the Dickies Duck Double Knee Pants (9 oz, 68% cotton, 30% polyester, 2% elastane). The prices are easier to swallow (less than $50) and the pants will take a beating. Looks-wise though, you won’t win any awards.
Going to the other end of the classic spectrum, you have the Filson Dry Tin-Cloth 5-Pocket Pants (10.5 oz, 100% cotton dry finish Tin Cloth duck canvas). The cut here is classic, and these are probably the best looking work pants I’ve seen that are likely to be truly comfortable and durable. But they are all work pants, designed to be worked in, not to be fashionable in — but with that undertaking they become a fashion staple in their own right.
Other Interesting Options
L.C. King has been making workwear in Tennessee since 1913. Their 5-pocket pants are 12 oz, 100% cotton duck. Make sure to check out their sizing information, as they use a lot of raw fabric that will shrink a lot (and in unpredictable ways) when washed.
The Patagonia Iron Forge line is 12.9 oz, 55% industrial hemp/27% recycled polyester/18% organic cotton canvas. They also have a lighter weight (9.6 oz) option dubbed “All Seasons”
1620 Workwear has a few work pant options, including one with 4-way stretch. They are also the highest priced, and the cuts seem workwear only, so these are probably the least interesting to me.
What am I thinking?
Out of all these options, the Filson or Patagonia appeal to me the most. Filson for the best look in and out of the shop, and Patagonia for the interesting, and sustainable hemp-blend fabric.
For the fashion brands that make workwear, like the the Camp pants or Outlier Duckworks, there are a few considerations. Are they making a fashion pant in workwear style? Or are they making a better looking workwear pant? I’d argue that the Taylor Stitch pants are in the first category, while the Duckworks are in the latter.
The Boss Duck fabric my Camp pants are in take them the closest to actual workwear of any of the fabrics, however, the fabric seems too soft to hold up to the rigors of work. Wearing the pants for normal wear, the knees show a shiney-ness/flatness that makes me pause.
While I don’t own a pair, taking a look at the weight (13.5 oz) and photos/description (the fabric looks thick and dense) the Duckworks look more like a workwear pant that looks better. The boxier cut also tips them further into the workwear category as they look cut to move.
With those two examples, what should you be looking for in fashion brand workwear pants if you actually want to work in them? I’d say a heavier and dense fabric, cut to move with you (since the fabric will likely have little or no stretch), and durable stitching.
Recent Reviews on EDW
Bonobos Tech Chinos — A sleeper hit due to the Schoeller fabric, but Ben still prefers the Outlier Futureworks.
GRIP6 Belt — Ben’s new favorite belt.
Good, non-obvious topic. I just got a pair of camp pants but haven't worn them much yet to test. Another option in the "more fashionable workwear" category is my friend Tony's brand Edgevale. Their Cast Iron Utility Pants fit the bill. https://edgevaleusa.com/collections/cast-iron-collection/products/cast-iron-utility-pant-2-7